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 Power Windows from Fox Body Donor Tutorial
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Soogazzi
Junior Member

USA
273 Posts

Posted - 03/14/2012 :  9:13:10 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi Guys, I haven't posted in a while, just been trolling. Last fall when I did the power mirror tutorial ( http://www.mustangii.net/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=15985&SearchTerms=power,mirror ) I also installed power windows using parts from the same donor car, an 88GT. I took all these pictures then and uploaded them to Photobucket in order so I'll finally post the tutorial and hope that I remember everything!

Here goes:

First remove the door panel. Depending on the type of door panel you have this may differ slightly but you'll have to remove the arm rest and handle, the window crank, the exit handle/lever and speakers if you have aftermarket speakers with a grill mounted on top of the door panel. Notice that my door is off the car. It was already off the car, you don't have to remove the door. There are clips around the perimeter to hold the panel tight. Be careful not to damage the panel when removing these clips:


Here is the door without the panel.


Next remove the window stops (top and bottom) and the inside guides. When the glass goes up and down it rides against these two felt covered guides on the inside and against the felt strip attached to the trim on the outside. Plus there is one stop at the bottom and at the top. Here is the door with the stops removed and sitting on top in the location they came from


Now remove the glass alignment bar by removing the four bolts from the plastic guides and the bolt and nut from the top and bottom of the guide. You may need to use the loose crank to move the window up/down a bit to get the bar out. Here is the bar and plastic guides:


After removal:


Move the window and crank around to get the regulator guide out of the window groove:


Now carfully lower the glass all the way down to access the screws from the exterior trim bar. Here is a pic of the screws. By removing this you can remove the glass from the door which will make things easier.


In this picture you can see where to align the metal bracket attached to the glass so you can remove it:


Now remove the regulator by drilling out the three rivets:


Like so:


Comparison of the two regulators:




I removed the tension springs by cranking all the way one way to make the tension as low as possible. Then on the the newer one I unbolted the motor. On the stock one I drilled out the three rivets on the regulator crank gear:




Now I cut the end off the stock regulator body. By cutting along the molded hump it is easy to keep a straight line:




Next I cut the new regulator to get the end that the motor bolts up to. You'll have to measure a bit and keep adjusting so that you can slap the to pieces together and then use the moter to make sure the final adgustment is correct. Once you get it right put a clamp on it:








Then weld the brackets together:


At this point you could try to put the regulator back in but you'll find that the motor will get in the way of the door release lever and mechanism. You have to move the regulator toward the front of the door. This means you have to lengthen the regulator arm. Here is how to lengthen it:
Cut off stock end:


Cut length off donor regulator:


Weld the ends together:






Now reinstall the tension spring. Make sure you put it on the right way so it helps to lift the window up. I found it was easy to use a pin or something to stick through the holes in the sprocket to hold it in place while you install the motor:




Now that you have a motor installed you'll need a way to move it. Take the two wire leads out of the plastic plug end. There is a release pin in the plastic end that you can depress to release the plug ends. Pay attention to which wire goes where for reassembly:




Now you can use a battery charger or other 12v power source to make the moter go up or down. Just reverse the voltage to switch from up to down.

Now we need to figure out how to install the new regulator assembly: I actually did this a bit earlier to figure out how much to lengthen the regulator arm. See on the picture where we drilled out a rivet and where the hole from that rivet is in the regulator? Measure that to see how much to lengthen the arm. As you can see in the picture, there is a recess in the door and I decided to push the regulator forward until the old rivet hole lined up in the recess.


There is a tab on the the regulator body that I cut off for easier installation:






You'll need to cut a hole in the door above the speaker to accept the front of the new regulator body. This is the first door I did. The hole can be made smaller and prettier. I took a picture of the second one I did which looks nicer but I don't have the picture up on the net yet. I'll post it later:


As you can see in this photo, the hole has to be only large enough to get the regulator through and to make sure that you have access to the three bolts for the motor so you can easily replace the motor in the future if needed:


Since the one old rivet hole lines up to bolt into the recess and the recess runs at an angle the other old rivet hole would have a gap between the door skin and the regulator bracket. I just cut it off. You can modify it to attach if you want. Here are two pics:




Here you can see that it looks like the regulator and moter will interfere with your speaker but it does not. Unless you have some heavy duty sound system and your speaker has an extra large magnet, you should be fine. If you are worried you could rotate the regulator assembly up in the front.


Here is an inside pic. If you look up and to the right you can make out the speaker magnet, the gear and the motor. I moved the window up and down with the speaker in place.


Installation of the glass is the opposite of the removal. The first door took me about 3 hours and the second one took 45 minutes. Combined with the power mirror mod you can get these parts easily by buying a junker fox body like I did

Edited by - roystere on 03/19/2012 11:37:23 AM

Garret
Senior Member

Canada
1423 Posts

Posted - 03/14/2012 :  9:24:39 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I would also suggest taking the factory ford switches apart and cleaning them if you are going to use the fox window switches

78 Mustang 2 - 5.0HO EFI - 4cyl T5 - Coilovers - Airshocks - Hedman's - 2.79s - M90 Supercharged and Intercooled 15psi

My Build - http://www.mustangii.net/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=14193
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stang74shelby
Advanced Member

USA
4234 Posts

Posted - 03/15/2012 :  05:49:54 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
damn... wheres my LIKE button? lol Hell yea man, looks good. When ya coming down to Indy to Hook a Brother up lol

http://www.rebeldevil.com
http://74stang.blogspot.com/
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robertsmibii
Advanced Member

Canada
2677 Posts

Posted - 03/15/2012 :  07:26:38 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thank you Eric, that is a great tutorial...

Mean in Black II
Original - Primitive; first in order; bearing its own authority and not deriving authority from an outside source. Black's Law.
Sovereign - Governs itself by its own authority and laws.
Nation - Latin - To be born.
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cobraii351
Member

USA
944 Posts

Posted - 03/15/2012 :  07:43:59 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
VERY cool! That option would go very nicely with the "Factory" power door locks I installed. Where did you mount the switches?

351W, Ported D0OE heads,69 Shelby alum. intake, Motorsport M6250A332 cam, AOD w/wide ratio gearing, TCI Street Fighter conv., 9" 3.25 t/l, SSM subframe connectors, Heidt's Granada brake kit
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nasty2stang
Junior Member

452 Posts

Posted - 03/15/2012 :  10:24:23 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
great info! much better than the junk universal kits.



i do have a question though. any chance that the motor could be added to the original regulator? i had some luck on a ranger years ago just adding the motor and welding 3 perches for the motor to bolt to. the gear teeth meshed well on it.


my ponies grazing
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Soogazzi
Junior Member

USA
273 Posts

Posted - 03/15/2012 :  12:23:27 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Garret, you are right, the switch I had wasn't even any good. I rebuilt it but the contacts were worn away completely.

Mike, I've been meaning to ask you how your project has been progressing.

Cobraii351 - I haven't mounted the switches yet. I'm not even sure what switches I'll use when I do. My project is still in the deconstruction phase.

Nasty2stang - I'm going off of memory here but I think I looked at that option first and couldn't figure out a way of doing it. I'm not going to say it couldn't be done though. I seem to think that the motor would have gotten in the way of some linkage parts but you could also swap the driver side and passenger side motors and the motor would stick up instead of down. It may get in the way of the glass though.

1978 2.3l 2+2 Tangerine
1978 2.3l Coupe Black
1977 2.8l Rallye Black

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UncleFluffy
Member

Canada
788 Posts

Posted - 03/15/2012 :  12:42:12 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
very nice tutorial.....I think we need to get one of the Mods to make this a sticky!!!


The Joker - '77 Hatchback, T-Tops, 302, 5 spd, 2.79's, Edelbrock Performer 289 Intake, Holley 600 cfm carb, Custom ROLLED paint job

My Build - http://www.mustangii.net/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=16351
October 2012 COTM Story - http://www.mustangii.net/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=17418

Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car.

Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you.
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roystere
Moderator

USA
3616 Posts

Posted - 03/19/2012 :  11:38:40 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
It's a sticky...

Rob
There's still less Pinto in mine, than Falcon in yours...

1978 Mach1 EFI 5.0
2005 Mustang GT
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/858154


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Soogazzi
Junior Member

USA
273 Posts

Posted - 03/19/2012 :  6:29:31 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Sweet! I never had a sticky before..at least not on a forum.

1978 2.3l 2+2 Tangerine
1978 2.3l Coupe Black
1977 2.8l Rallye Black

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bstang71
Advanced Member

Canada
2770 Posts

Posted - 03/19/2012 :  7:08:36 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Doesn't the slap chop guy sell stickies?

Manufacturer of the original V8 urethane motor mount repair kits.
78 King Cobra non t-top.
79 Bronco Ranger XLT
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Soogazzi
Junior Member

USA
273 Posts

Posted - 03/19/2012 :  7:31:50 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I think it's best to stay away from his wares ;)

1978 2.3l 2+2 Tangerine
1978 2.3l Coupe Black
1977 2.8l Rallye Black

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heylittlecobraII
New Member

USA
96 Posts

Posted - 07/27/2012 :  09:05:21 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
so where did you put the switches?
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Soogazzi
Junior Member

USA
273 Posts

Posted - 07/28/2012 :  10:10:26 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I haven't mounted the switches as my car is disassembled but I'm thinking of not re-installing my heater and defrost and use that control panel space in the dash to put the switches along with the power mirror and cruise control.

1978 2.3l 2+2 Tangerine
1978 2.3l Coupe Black
1977 2.8l Rallye Black

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78stang2
Junior Member

USA
456 Posts

Posted - 08/14/2012 :  2:23:03 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
The fox regulators look so similar other then the arm being longer, would you be able to just mount them in the door?

Also I always thought that round hole just past the regulator was for a power window motor that they never installed. Any chance of using that?
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Soogazzi
Junior Member

USA
273 Posts

Posted - 08/25/2012 :  8:51:39 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Sorry for the dely. I'll post here too so the answer is in this thread:

I think you may be able to use the complete fox regulator, I wanted to utilize a spot on the door that had a nice recessed plane to bolt the regulator to which is why I installed it where I did and I needed the arm lenght to match. If you use the full fox regulator you'd probably just need to come up with a spacer or some washers where you bolt it on.

As for adding a motor to a II regulator, I don't see how it would work without modifying the regulator. The II regulator has a metal shroud covering the gears. I didn't spend much time thinking about that option though. I just came up with my idea and ran with it.

1978 2.3l 2+2 Tangerine
1978 2.3l Coupe Black
1977 2.8l Rallye Black

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